Port Antonio

Sheer wealth is readily apparent everywhere east of Port Antonio along the coast, sometimes to an astonishing degree; however, the town's over-the-top grandeur has been fading for decades, leaving in its place potholed roads, dilapidated historical sites, and an increasingly desperate dependence on a barely trickling tourism trade. Some of the most beautiful real estate in Jamaica--and perhaps in the entire world--can be found in the vicinity, much of it overgrown and conspicuously neglected. The restaurant and bar on Navy Island, a two-hectare piece of land that protects Port Antonio's West Harbour, has trees growing up through the rotting floorboards with little remaining to remind visitors of the parish's more glamorous days. Efforts to return Navy Island to its former glory have apparently lost steam. Similarly, the restaurant at Blue Hole, or Blue Lagoon, as it was popularized in the movie of the same name, was closed from 2003 to 2007. Michael Lee Chin, one of Jamaica's wealthiest businessmen, recently took control of the land on the western shores of the Lagoon, in addition to buying Trident Castle and the Trident Hotel from Earl Levy, but planned refurbishments at both properties have yet to materialize.

Many residents ask themselves why this unique and marketable natural treasure has been so poorly managed. Some blame the area's remoteness, exacerbated by winding, potholed roads, and say the new North Coast Highway, which incidentally stops at Port Antonio's town limits, is key to turning the area around. Some blame Jamaica's promotional institutions like the Jamaica Tourism Board or the Urban Development Corporation for mishandling resources and retarding the development process; still others blame the elite villa owners, many of them absent much of the year to return for brief spells when they prefer the quiet, old world character of the land, free from masses of transient tourists and preserved in time as a result.

Despite the seemingly stagnant pace of development, efforts have been made and are under way to return Port Antonio to its former glory and jump-start the economy of what should be one of the Caribbean's most popular, exclusive tourist destinations. The new Errol Flynn Marina on the West Harbour in the heart of Port Antonio was inaugurated in 2004 and has world-class facilities, low docking fees, as well as a new Russian-Eurasian restaurant. Never mind that the aforementioned Navy Island development was slated for inclusion in the Marina project before funds disappeared. Other recent developments have seen Butch Stewart, who owns the Sandals and Beaches all-inclusive resorts, buy Dragon Bay, formerly one of the area's top resorts (made famous as a set for the movie Cocktail). Stewart is apparently waiting on the government, or some sign from God, to reopen the property as an ultra-luxury all-inclusive.

What is certain is that the present trickle of visitors who come through Port Antonio do not constitute a strong enough driving force to support a healthy economy, leaving crumbling Folly Mansion, its enormous structure built in the Roaring Twenties with a cement-salt water mix, an ironic symbol of stagnation. But few who visit can help but comment on the area's tremendous natural beauty. Secluded white-sand beaches, extravagant villas, plentiful rivers, and strikingly unique topography where the hills fall gently to the sea make Port Antonio and the northeast coast an immediate favorite.

The reality is that any hope of a new economic boom may have faded, despite the memory of Portland as the Caribbean's first tourist destination as a result of the banana trade in the early 19th century. Port Antonio saw a brief comeback in the 1960s and 1970s when it became the playground of choice for the rich and famous from around the world, many of whom left grand mansions seemingly transplanted from old world Europe to the lush green hills of Portland. These past luminaries include the film star Errol Flynn, who left an important legacy in Port Antonio when he died in 1959. Many of Flynn's former properties lie in ruins today.

SIGHTS

The heart of historic Port Antonio, known as Titchfield Hill, is best visited by strolling around the peninsula, consuming little more than an hour at a leisurely pace. Titchfield Hill is today a run-down neighborhood dotted with several buildings that hint at more prosperous times with decorative latticework and wide front steps leading up to wraparound verandas. The Demontevin Lodge (21 Fort George St., tel. 876/993-2604) is a case in point. It was once the private home of David Gideon, who became Custos of Port Antonio in 1923. Today it is a tired hotel operated under unenthusiastic management and not recommended for lodging, but its decorative gingerbread house ironwork reminiscent of old sea captains' homes on the Massachusetts coast is striking and worth a look. Demontevin hosts a popular karaoke night on Fridays.

The foundation and scattered ruins of the Titchfield Hotel, built by banana boat captain Lorenzo Dow Baker of the Boston Fruit Company, stand across Queen Street from Ocean Crest Guest House and are now occupied by the Jamaica Defense Force, which patrols Navy Island across the water. At its peak the Titchfield was the favored watering hole for luminaries like Bette Davis, J. P. Morgan, and Errol Flynn, who ended up buying the place in addition to Navy Island and the Bonnie View Hotel, overlooking the town from the best perch around. The Titchfield was destroyed and rebuilt several times before it was gutted and abandoned after Flynn's death.

At the tip of the Titchfield peninsula stands Titchfield School, constructed on the ruins of Fort George. Built by the English to defend against Spanish reprisals that never came, Fort George never really saw any action but operated nonetheless until World War I. It had walls three meters thick and embrasures for 22 cannons, a few of which are still present. Nobody manages this historic site, making it free and accessible anytime.

Errol Flynn Marina

Errol Flynn Marina (tel. 876/993-3209 or 876/715-6044, fax 876/715-6033, info@errolflynnmarina.com, www.errolflynnmarina.com, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. daily) has slips for 32 boats. Vessels under 50 feet are charged US$0.75 per foot per day, over 50 feet US$1.25 per foot per day; electricity and water are also available at metered rates (US$0.24/kWhr for electricity and US$0.09/gallon of water). A well-laid-out and planted promenade along the waterfront has benches. Wireless Internet is included for marina guests, and there is an Internet café open to nonguests (US$4/hour). Devon House I Scream and Norma's at the Marina are both located within the gated complex, and the scenic waterfront makes a romantic spot to let evening drift into night. A private beach faces Navy Island just beyond Norma's. The park along the waterfront is open to the public (7 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 7 a.m.–midnight Sat. and Sun.), as is the beach, marina and restaurant; the docks and pool are reserved for marina guests. The beach is open to customers of Norma's. The Errol Flynn Marina is owned by the Port Authority of Jamaica and managed by Westrec Marina. The marina opened in September 2002 and was renamed the Errol Flynn Marina in 2006.

Port Antonio Marina, also under the control of the Port Authority of Jamaica, also offers docking ($0.35/foot) with water, electricity, and showers, but no security after 4 p.m. By car, access the Port Antonio Marina down the road next to the old train station across from CC Bakery. The difference between them comes down to security, proximity to the bar and restaurant, and complimentary wireless Internet.

Navy Island

Navy Island, originally called Lynch's Island, is a landmass slightly larger than Titchfield Hill, about 0.75 kilometer long with an area of about two hectares. It protects Port Antonio's West Harbour with a large sandbar extending off its western side. The island was at one point sited for construction of the town, but the British Navy acquired it instead as a place to beach ships for cleaning and repairs. A naval station was eventually built there, and later Errol Flynn bought the island and turned it into an exclusive resort. Today Navy Island is owned by the Port Authority; it's meant to be developed at some undetermined future time. A private bid for the land put together by a consortium of local landowners was blocked by the Authority, which seems wary of ceding control in spite of doing nothing with the land for the moment, to the dismay of many local residents.

The island is not serviced by any official tourist operation, but it's a great place to tromp around and explore, and the Jamaica Defense Force Officers there on patrol are friendly enough to visitors. Dennis Butler (cell tel. 876/809-6276) will take visitors to the island (US$10 per person, US$20 with lunch) from Shan Shy Beach just west of Port Antonio, adjacent to his father's restaurant, Dickie's Banana.

Bonnie View

The Bonnie View Hotel (Bonnie View Rd.) is another dilapidated former Errol Flynn property, no longer in operation as a hotel. The view is the best in town. To get there, take the washed-out Richmond Hill Road directly across from the Anglican Church on the corner of West Palm and Bridge streets. Bonnie View is not an organized attraction and there is no cost to have a look around as long as no one is around to make reference to the sign on property that states all sightseers must pay US$3 (J$150), which doesn't compute for today's exchange rate and dates the effort. Bonnie View makes a good early-morning walk from town for some aerobic exercise, and if someone asks for money to look at the view, perhaps offering to buy a drink from the nonexistent bar would provide adequate incentive for someone to establish a legitimate business there once again. The hill is passable by car if you drive at a snail's pace up the steep, potholed road.

Other Sights

Musgrave Market (6 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) is located across from the square in the heart of Port Antonio. The market sells fresh produce toward the front and down a lane on one side. The deeper in you go toward the waterfront, the more the market tends towards crafts, "Jamaica no problem" T-shirts, and Bob Marley plaques. The most authentic artistry can be found at the very back where Rockbottom (cell tel. 876/844-9946), a woodcarver since 1980, has his setup. His nickname comes from his sales pricing, he says. For jewelry, clothing, and other Rasta-inspired crafts, check out Sister Dawn's (Shop #21, cell tel. 876/486-7516, portlandcraftproducers@yahoo.com).

Boundbrook Wharf is the old banana-loading wharf just west of town, behind the old railway station that now serves as the Portland Art Gallery. While not as busy as in the banana-boom days, the wharf continues to be used on occasion. The wharf makes a good 20-minute walk from town. Just north from the entrance to the wharf, a sandy lane leads off the main road to the beach, where fishing boats are tethered in front of the small fishermen's community.

Winnifred Beach

Winnifred, known as the people's beach, lies in a wide, shallow, white-sand cove. It is a beautiful, free public beach in the Fairy Hill district just east of San San and the Blue Lagoon. It's also the best place for conch soup and fried fish. Food and beverages are sold by a slew of vendors, and there's a nice restaurant.

Named after the daughter of Quaker minister F. B. Brown as a rest place for missionaries, teachers, and the respectable poor, Winnifred has remained decidedly local, thanks perhaps to the trust that once managed the area and had provisions ensuring that locals could access and enjoy the beach. The Urban Development Corporation now controls the land, but local resistance to its being developed has ensured that it remains a local hot spot.

Cynthia's, on the western end of the beach serves excellent fried fish with rice and peas (US$10). Undoubtedly someone will ask for a "contribution," but it's not necessary. Instead, support the vendors. The rocky road down to the beach has two access points from the main road. The best route goes through the housing development on the ocean side of the road less than 0.75 kilometer east of Dragon Bay. A turn into a housing development across the road from Jamaica Crest, followed by a quick right in front of the Neighborhood Watch sign, allows you avoid the worst part of the road that descends off the main next to the former Mikuzi.

Other Beaches

Shan Shy Beach on Bryan's Bay charges no entry fee and is home to a beach complex run by Donovan "Atto" Tracey (tel. 876/394-1312). An open, covered building has a billiards room with two tables.

One of the less-frequented beaches in Port Antonio, Shan Shy is a good place to take off on snorkeling or fishing excursions, which can be arranged through Atto or Dennis Butler (cell tel. 876/854-4763, US$20–50 depending on number of passengers and distance; Dennis can also be contacted via his mother, Marjorie, cell tel. 876/869-4391) of Dickie's Banana. The beach is located five minutes west of town at a sharp curve in the main road.

Around the bend in White River, Lucky Star Cookshop and Bar overlooks a another angler's beach. It's a favorite cool-out spot for local men, who are often found in the evenings playing poker and dominos.

Errol Flynn Marina has a well-maintained, private beach for guests of the Marina and patrons of Norma's at the Marina.

Directly in front of the crumbling Folly Mansion, Folly Beach is a small beach with a narrow strip of sand. It has coral and a rough floor and sees few visitors.

Frenchman's Cove (entrance fee US$5) is one of the most picturesque coves in Jamaica. The beach here is well protected and drops off steeply after the first 20 meters.

Dragon Bay is a private beach protected by guards. In the near future, however, visitors may be able to gain access to Dragon Bay Resort.

Boston Beach, in a protected cove a few minutes east of Winnifred, consistently gets the best swells in the area and has a surf shop.

San San Beach (10 a.m.–4 p.m. daily, US$5) is the most exclusive beach in Port Antonio. It's located at the base of San San Hill, where many of the area's nicer villas are. The fine-sand beach hugs a cove next to Alligator Head and overlooks Pellew Island, from where a protective reef extends eastward to the mouth of Blue Hole.

Folly Mansion

Just east of Port Antonio along Alan Avenue, a left onto a dirt road before the cricket pitch follows the edge of East Harbour out to Folly Point Lighthouse. A right turn after the cricket pitch along a grassy vehicle track through low-lying scrub forest leads to Folly Mansion, which is an unmanaged attraction (free and always accessible) on government-owned land. Folly was for a few years after its construction the most ostentatious building in Jamaica, before it started to crumble. Built by Connecticut millionaire Alfred Mitchell in 1905, the mansion had 60 rooms and an indoor swimming pool and was made almost entirely of cement. Apparently the cement was mixed with saltwater, which proved a bad combination. The salt not only weakened the cement but rusted the steel framework, causing almost immediate deterioration. Nonetheless, Mitchell lived in the mansion with his wife, a Tiffany heiress, and their family on and off until his death in 1912, and it wasn't until 1936 that the house was abandoned. On the waterfront in front of the pillared mansion is the humble little Folly Beach, which faces small Wood Island, where Mitchell is said to have kept monkeys and other exotic animals. The beach isn't bad for a swim, but care should be taken as the sea floor is not even and parts are covered with sharp reef. The area is known to have a strong current at times.

The name "Folly" predates Mitchell and his ill-fated mansion, as made clear by Folly Point Lighthouse, which was built and named in 1888. Apparently the name refers to Baptist minister James Service, who once owned the property, having acquired it piece by piece. For this he was lauded with a playful expression extolling his frugal ways, which were not, in fact, based in folly. Many legends surround the mansion, the most popular story being that the mansion was built as a wedding gift, but the bride ran off in tears when her dream home began to crumble as soon as she was carried across the threshold.

Folly Point Lighthouse stands on a point extending along the windward shore of East Harbour. The lighthouse is not generally open to the public, but the property manager is known to let visitors in on occasion. A track usually too rutted and muddy for a vehicle runs along the water's edge between the lighthouse and the mansion.

Blue Hole

Blue Hole is also commonly known as the Blue Lagoon thanks to a 1980 Randal Kleiser adventure film of the same name starring a teenage Brooke Shields. This Blue Lagoon has no relation to the film, though locals will make the connection erroneously. Portland's Blue Hole is Jamaica's largest underground spring-fed lagoon, of which there are many smaller ones scattered across the island. The Blue Lagoon is made all the more unique by its location in a 55-meter-deep protected cove along the coast, where warm tidal waters gently mix with fresh water welling up from the depths. Some claim Blue Hole has no bottom. At one time, Robin Moore, the author of The French Connection, owned much of the land surrounding the lagoon; today his cottages lie in ruins. A restaurant and bar with a deck overhanging the lagoon has been closed for several years. In 2006 Michael Lee Chin, National Commercial Bank (NCB) chairman and one of Jamaica's richest men, took over the lease for the land bordering the western edge of the lagoon. A handful of craft vendors line the beach waiting patiently to make a sale. The restaurant was dilapidated and falling into the water, but chatter could be heard about the possibility that Island Outpost would take over management of the attraction.

Blue Hole is located east of San San Beach and Pellew Island, just past the well-marked turnoff for Goblin Hill heading east. Turn onto the lane off the main road along the Blue Lagoon Villas and continue down to a small parking area along the beach.

Reach Falls

Reach Falls (tel. 876/993-6606 or 876/993-6683, www.reachfalls.com, 8:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Wed.–Sun., US$10 adults, US$5 children under 12, US$4.25 residents), or Reich Falls, as it's sometimes spelled, is located in a beautiful river valley among the lower northeast foothills of the John Crow Mountains. The river cascades down a long series of falls that can be climbed from the base far below the main pool where the attraction, which is managed by Jamaica's Urban Development Corporation (UDC), is based. You will want to start at the bottom and continue far above the main pool to get the full exhilarating experience. To climb the full length of the cataracts requires about two hours, but if you stop to enjoy each little pool it could easily consume all day. Before reaching the dedicated parking area there is a dirt road just before a wooden shack that leads down to the base of the falls.

To get to Reach Falls, head inland by a set of shacks just east of Manchioneel up a picturesque winding road. The turnoff is marked by a large sign for Reach Falls. Unofficial guides made their services mandatory for years when the falls were officially closed as a managed attraction. These guides often congregate at a fork in the road where you turn left to get to the falls. The guides still offer their services on days when the UDC-managed sight is closed. The guides are in fact indispensable when it comes to climbing the falls, as they know every rock along the riverbed, which is very slippery in certain places. As always, get a sense of what your guide will expect for the service up front (US$5–10 is reasonable) to avoid the discomfort associated with unmet expectations when you leave. Leonard Welsh ("Sendon") and Byron Shaw (tel. 876/891-1061 or 876/871-3745) are recommended guides on Monday and Tuesday, when the UDC-managed sight is closed; contact Rugy ("Taliban") at the Look In Lookout bar (cell tel. 876/538-6667) to arrange for a guided visit. A few craftsmen have stands along the road selling wood carvings, and Rene is a charismatic local craftsman who makes lung exercisers, which he claims enhance breathing ability and lung capacity.

Two local guides/lifeguards have been employed by the UDC since it opened the attraction officially in early 2007. The UDC's lease on the property extends from a little below the main pool to a little above it, and unofficial guides will be turned away from the main waterfalls area on either side of the leased land. Mandingo Cave, which is found further up the river, is not currently part of the official tour offered but can be reached by going with the local guides.

Arts and Crafts

The Portland Art Gallery (9 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) is located inside the old Railway Station by the Banana Docks on West Street, about a 10 minutes' walk from the Main Square. Hopeton Cargill (cell tel. 876/882-7732 or 876/913-3418), whose work includes landscape paintings, portraits, and commercial signs, is the gallery director.

At the Jamaica Palace Hotel (tel. 876/993-7720, 7 a.m.–9 p.m. daily), the late Sigi Fahmi established a large collection of Ken Abendana Spencer paintings for sale. A Portland native, the late Ken Spencer was one of the most prolific artists in the country's history. He captured scenes from Jamaican life with quick, effortless strokes that allowed him to sell his paintings very cheaply and distribute them widely, becoming well recognized. The hotel lobby, while far from inviting, is filled with kitsch art by the late owner. Other artists whose work is represented at the hotel include John Campbell and Ann-Marie Korti. A walk around the hotel is a real trip.

Philip Henry (tel. 876/993-3162, philartambokle@hotmail.com) is a talented artist who has prints, portraits, and sculpture for sale in his small home studio. Call or email to set up an appointment.

Michael Layne (19 Sommers Town Rd., tel. 876/993-3813, cell tel. 876/784-0288, miclayne@cw.jamaica.com) is considered by many the top ceramist in the parish and has exhibited at galleries in Kingston countless times. Layne was born and raised in Portland, studying at Titchfield High School and then going on to Edna Manley College in Kingston to concentrate in ceramics. Today Layne teaches art at Titchfield High School and works out of his home studio (open by appointment), where he creates works that include large bottles, bowls, and vases assembled with clay slabs, decorated with oxides, and single fired.

Marcia Henry (Lot #5, Red Hassell Lane, tel. 876/993-3162) is a talented local artist with a home studio.

Carriacou Gallery (in Hotel Mocking Bird Hill, tel. 876/993-7134, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. daily) features work of co-owner Barbara Walker, in addition to many other local artists.

ENTERTAINMENT AND EVENTS

Port Antonio is not a haven for club-goers by any means, but there are a few good venues that hold regular theme nights throughout the week, as well as occasional live performances. Several times a year, stage shows are set up around the area, Somerset Falls being a favorite venue for concerts and Boston and Long Bay also hosting occasional events. Many of the area's upscale villa owners and visitors prefer to entertain with dinner parties, which can be quite lavish.

Nightclubs

Cristal Night Club (19<@fract>1/2 West Palm Ave., contact Peter Hall, cell tel. 876/288-7657, cristalniteclub@yahoo.com, open 5 p.m.–close Wed. and Sat.) is Port Antonio's newest club, reopening in March 2009 after years of dormancy. The club features Ladies' Night 11 p.m.–2 a.m. Wednesday with free drinks all night for the ladies, and the Portland Day Rave starting at 5 p.m. on Saturday, morphing into the club sessions that go through the night.

Club La Best (5 West St., contact club manager/owner Chris, cell tel. 876/896-9024) does Ladies' Night on Wednesdays (US$2, ladies free) with a disco, R&B, and reggae mix; after-work jams that stretch into long club hours on Fridays (free) with mostly dancehall music; and Smart Casual Sundays (US$2), with reggae and R&B vintage music. Wednesday is a slower night. Live shows, when they happen, are held on Saturday nights. Club La Best opens at 9:30 p.m. and closes when the last person leaves. The club holds around 800 people, who crowd in for occasional radio DJs and performers. Club La Best opened in April 2006.

Roof Club (11 West St., managed by Shawn "Blue" Rankine, cell tel. 876/449-0852, 10 p.m. until the last person leaves, US$3) is open for Ladies' Night on Thursdays, Crazy Saturdays, and occasional special events on Fridays. It's the longest-standing nightclub in Port Antonio, open for the past 33 years. It generally plays dancehall, reggae, and R&B--in other words the perfect mix for bumping and grinding, or "whining," in local parlance. It's an earthy, at times seedy, place with old wooden floors, a DJ booth on one side, and the bar opposite with neon lights and a disco ball hanging from the ceiling. Don't be surprised if a patron approaches and uses a forward introduction by commanding, "buy mi a drink nuh."

Bars

Marybelle's Pub on the Pier (Errol Flynn Marina, tel. 876/413-9731, bellmar_bell92@yahoo.com, noon–11 p.m. daily) serves drinks and finger food like burgers, pizza, salads, and fruit by the pool. The bar offers customers complimentary Wi-Fi.

Irie Vibes (Shop #10, West Harbour Plaza, by KFC, run by William Saunders, cell tel. 876/375-4495, noon–close Mon.–Sat., 4:30 p.m.–close Sun. and holidays) bar, pool hall, and gaming lounge is a popular hangout overlooking the West Harbour. Drinks run US$1–5.

Eye Candy (Royal Mall, no phone, noon–11 p.m. weekdays, noon–1 a.m. weekends) has a pool table and dominos.

Festivals and Events

Fi Wi Sinting (contact founder Sister P, cell tel. 876/426-1957, www.fiwisinting.com) is a must-see festival celebrating Jamaica's African heritage. It's held the third Sunday in February.

Portland All Fest (contact Somerset Falls, tel. 876/913-0046, info@somersetfallsjamaica.com, www.somersetfallsjamaica, held mid-March) is a family fun day with food, swimming, and concerts at the open-air venue at the base of Somerset Falls.

Bling Dawg Summer Jam (info@somersetfallsjamaica.com, www.visitjamaica.com, held in July) is one of several annual events held at Somerset Falls. Bling Dawg is a well-recognized promoter who brings together an array of dancehall artists for the event. Contact Somerset Falls for more information.

Portland Jerk Festival (Jerk Festival office, Shop #33, Royal Mall, 2–4 Fort George St., contact the kind and helpful secretary Dahlia Minott, tel. 876/715-6553, or chair person Sybil Rendle, cell tel. 876/389-1601, or vice-chair and regional manager for Jamaica Tourism Board, www.visitjamaica.com) is held on the first Sunday in July and admission tends to be around US$10. Local arts, crafts, and concerts complement every kind of jerk food imaginable. The venue was once in Boston but was relocated to Folly Oval in 2007.

The International Blue Marlin Tournament (contact Ron DuQuesnay, chair of the Sir Henry Morgan Angling Association, cell tel. 876/909-8818, rondq@mail.infochan.com, US$170 registration) is held out of the Port Antonio Marina each October. The event draws anglers from far and wide and also runs a concurrent 35-canoe folk fishing tournament for local anglers who fight the billfish with hand-held lines and usually bring in a better catch than the expensive big boats.

One of the highlights of the annual event calendar is the Flynn Flim Festival (no, that's not a typo, it's a play on words) (contact the Errol Flynn marina, cell tel. 876/715-6044) held during the third week in June and featuring Errol Flynn movie screenings, a rafting race down the Rio Grande, a Flynn look-alike contest where patrons dress as Errol or one of his ladies in their favorite Flynn movie. Jazz on the pier in the evenings serves as a continuation of the Ocho Rios Jazz Festival.

SHOPPING

Things Jamaican (Errol Flynn Marina, tel. 876/715-5247, 10 a.m.–8 p.m. daily) is a great little outlet for Jamaican products, arts and crafts, clothing and accessories, aromatherapy, books, and DVDs.

Royal Mall is a surreal building with a mosaic of facades built by the late Sigi Fahmi, who's also responsible for one of the area's most atrocious buildings, the Jamaica Palace Hotel. Its construction evokes an assortment of European styles, with several shops inside, a few of them worth checking out.

Sportsman's Toy Box (Shop #28, tel. 876/715-4542, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Fri.) sells diving and fishing equipment.

Portland Jerk Festival Office offers fax and photocopy services when it is in operation, typically the six months prior to the festival.

Hamilton's Bookstore (24 West St., contact co-owner Avarine Moore, tel. 876/993-9634, 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) has a small but decent selection of Jamaican folk books and cookbooks.

A&G Record Mart (4 Blake St., contact Janet cell tel. 876/488-1593 or 876/427-8766, 10 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) has a great selection of CDs, DVDs, LP singles and complete albums, 45s, and 33s. Gospel, R&B, dancehall, reggae, soul, soca, and calypso are well represented.

SPORTS AND RECREATION

Carder Park is the community football field across the road from East Harbour that comes alive for several family-fun events throughout the year, like the dominos championship.

Folly Oval is the town's cricket pitch and where the schools practice sports; it extends along the edge of East Harbour. The large field hosts the annual Portland Jerk Festival.

Island Massage Therapy & Yoga (cell tel. 876/818-4771, Portland tel. 876/993-7605, Kingston tel. 876/924-5503, namaste_ja@hotmail.com, US$90/per hour for massage) is led by Barbara Gingerich, who is both a certified massage therapist and yoga instructor. Barbara holds sessions in a studio at her house and on her large veranda, which has a stunning view of the sea and gardens. You can also have Barbara come to you for an additional charge if you're staying in the area. She works between Kingston and Port Antonio; yoga classes are priced based on group size.

Water Sports

Pellew Island is a private island, given, as the legend has it, by industrial magnate and famed art collector Baron Von Thyssen to supermodel Nina Dyer, one of his many brides, as a wedding gift in 1957. Nina Dyer committed suicide some five years later, and Von Thyssen himself died in 2002. The island is now slated for development of four villas, which are up for sale. While there are no organized tours of the private island, fishermen from the small beach adjacent to Blue Hole can take visitors over for excellent snorkeling along the reefs around the island.

Lady G'Diver (Errol Flynn Marina, contact Steve or Jan Lee Widner, office tel. 876/715-5957, cell tel. 876/995-0246 or 876/452-8241, ladygdiver@cwjamaica.com, www.ladygdiver.com) runs diving excursions from the Marina. Port Antonio's waters are quieter than those off Ocho Rios or Montego Bay and are less over-fished. Wall diving is especially popular. Lady G'Diver offers a wide range of packages and programs, from basic PADI certification to Master courses. The most basic is the two-dive package (US$84 plus US$7 per person for equipment rental).

Barrett Adventures by Lark Cruises (contact Captain Carolyn Barrett, cell tel. 876/382-6384, info@barrettadventures.com, www.barrettadventures.com) operates two cruises out of Port Antonio, a round-trip to Cuba, and a Pirates of the Caribbean cruise to Port Royal (US$1,000 per person per week for 2–6 persons, US$900 for 7–8 persons). Other destinations are also possible to arrange. If the 40-foot Jeanneau is in the area, day cruises can be arranged (US$125 per person for 2–6 persons, US$100 per person for 7–10 persons). Otherwise, day cruises are generally based out of Montego Bay. Provisioning is at the passenger's expense, while the captain and cook are included. Shorter charters for less than a week are also offered (US$150 per person per day).

Bicycling

Pro Bicycles (3 Love Lane, contact Rohan who runs the shop, cell tel. 876/838-2399 or 876/993-2341, 9 a.m.–5:30 p.m. daily) has a few basic, all-terrain, 18-speed bicycles (US$10/day). They're not in the best shape, but you can't beat the price.

Blue Mountain Bicycle Tours (121 Main St., Ocho Rios, tel. 876/974-7075, info@bmtoursja.com, www.bmtoursja.com) runs a popular downhill biking tour that has been somewhat truncated over the past few years due to landslides that blocked the upper reaches of the route. While the operation is based in Ocho Rios, people staying in Portland can link up with the bus in Buff Bay before it leaves the coast to ascend the B1 into the Blue Mountains to where the lazy downhill ride starts.

Horseback Riding

Riding is offered by Gold Course Delroy Course (cell tel. 876/383-1588, Winston (brother) cell tel. 876/485-1773), who hangs out by the driveway to Frenchman's Cove across from San San Golf waiting on potential customers. Delroy takes groups of up to four persons on a 1.5-hour trip around to San San Beach, or 4–5 hour trip to Nonesuch Caves, starting at US$20 per person and going up to US$30 for longer trips. A small sign with red letters hangs across from the gate at Frenchman's Cove, marking Delroy's outdoor "office."

Golf and Tennis

The San San Golf & Country Club (tel. 876/993-7644) located across the street from Frenchman's Cove, gets very little use nowadays and is officially closed, but people with their own clubs often sneak in to use the driving range or play a few holes--to the chagrin of owner Ernie Smatt.

Goblin Hill (San San, tel. 876/993-7537) allows nonguests to use the hotel's hardtop tennis courts (US$15/hour, US$12 for a pair of rackets). Goblin Hill was recently wired with state-of-the art Digicel broadband wireless internet, affording the hotel the most reliable and fast service available in Port Antonio.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Port Antonio has a wide range of accommodation options with a notable concentration of high-end villas. Nonetheless, budget hotels and guesthouses dot the coast from town all the way to Long Bay. As in many parts of Jamaica, there are no street numbers, and roads are often referred to as the "main." Refer to the maps in this book for exact locations.

Under US$100

There are two recommended, well-maintained guesthouses among the general dilapidation on Titchfield Hill. Both are owner-managed.

Ivanhoe's (9 Queen St., tel. 876/993-3043, ivanhoesja@hotmail.com, lornacamburke@hotmail.com, US$30–60) is a classic Jamaican wooden house with a red painted zinc roof surrounded by a white picket fence. In the center of the compound is a small courtyard with vines and flowers all about. The rooms are comfortable and airy, and the better ones have good views over the East Harbour. Rooms with a combination of queen-size and single beds all have TV and private baths with hot water. Breakfast and dinner are available to order.

Ocean Crest (7 Queen St., tel. 876/993-4024, lydia.j@cwjamaica.com) is located next door to Ivanhoe's and owned by Lydia Jones, a friendly and warm woman who takes pride in being attentive to her guests. The building is a more typical concrete construction, with tiled floors in the rooms. Ocean Crest rooms range from basic interior (US$35) to two top-floor balcony rooms (US$50 with fan, US$60 with fan/air-conditioning) with a view over the East Harbour. There is an open kitchen (with stove, refrigerator, pots, and utensils) for use by the guests, and Ms. Jones can also prepare breakfast on request (US$5). Ocean Crest is near all the useful conveniences such as ATMs, banks, supermarkets, craft market, restaurants, nightclubs, and public transportation. All the rooms have private bathroom, ceiling fan, hot water, and cable TV. There's a living and dining room and an open porch. The living room can be used for small conferences or meetings of up to 20 people.

Shadows (West St., cell tel. 876/828-2285, US$40) is a guesthouse and restaurant/bar in the heart of town owned and managed by the amicable Barrington Hamilton. The five small rooms have double beds, cable TV, air-conditioning, and private baths with hot water.

Drapers San Guest House (Drapers, tel. 876/993-7118, carla-51@cwjamaica.com) sits oceanside toward the easternmost end of Drapers district; it's an excellent budget option. A few rooms have shared baths (US$50, incl. breakfast and GCT) and a few have private baths (US$60). Two newer rooms offer a step up: Rasta Cottage (US$70) is self-contained with a private bath and veranda; the other "high-end" room is in the main building with its own bath and shared veranda (US$60). Drapers San owner Carla Gullotta is an avid reggae fan and can help arrange trips to stage shows and cultural heritage sights and events. She is also a good contact for travelers interested in visiting Culture Yard in Trench Town, Kingston.

Wright's Guest House (Tipperaire Rd., cell tel. 876/838-2399, US$40) managed by Rohan Lawrance (nephew of the Wrights) has five basic double-occupancy rooms with full-size beds, fans, hot water, and TV. To get there head east of Blue Lagoon 1.2 kilometers, and take the next left after Dragon Bay into the development signed Lower Zion Hill Fairy Hill Gardens; go left again, and you'll see two apartment buildings in one lot. Winnifred Beach is 20 minutes away on foot.

Search Me Heart (Drapers, cell tel. 876/453-7779 or 876/452-7177, info@searchmeheart.com, www.searchmeheart.com, US$60 per room, including breakfast) is a comfortable and clean two-bedroom cottage run as a guesthouse by Culture and his wife Roseanna. Amenities include hot water in private bathrooms and standing fans. The cottage is about a 10-15 minute walk to Frenchman's Cove, one of Port Antonio's best beaches. Culture offers tours for guests and nonguests to area attractions.

US$100–250

The Fan (contact Nino Sciuto, tel. 876/993-7259 or cell tel. 876/390-0118, info@villaswithclass.com, nino@villaswithclass.com, www.villaswithclass.com, US$160–180) is a private villa in the hills above Drapers with a breathtaking view of Dolphin Bay, Trident Castle, and Blue Mountain Peak. The villa rents two guest apartments. The grand suite, located on the top level, has a king bed, a large living room, kitchen, and balcony. The junior suite, on the ground level, has a double bed and a couch that can be turned into an extra bed if needed. Meals are prepared to order at an additional cost by the housekeeper, who would expect a tip equivalent to 10 percent of the rental cost for your stay, as is the norm. The Fan's owner, Gloria Palomino, also runs The Gap Café, a small bed-and-breakfast near Hardwar Gap in the Blue Mountains, and offers mountain and seaside packages for guests interested in experiencing both Port Antonio and the Blue Mountains.

Bay View Villas (Anchovy, tel. 876/993-3118, info@bayviewvillas-ja.com, www.bayviewvillas-ja.com, US$90) has 21 rooms in a large building with a variety of room arrangements. The hotel sits above Turtle Crawle Bay just east of Trident Castle. B&B (US$102) as well as all-inclusive (US$126) packages are offered. Rooms are comfortable and airy with TV, air-conditioning, balconies, and private bathrooms with hot water.

San San Tropez (San San, tel. 876/993-7213, info@sansantropez.com, www.sansantropez.com, US$75–250) is an Italian restaurant and five-bedroom accommodation just east of the San San police station. Rooms are comfortable with cable TV, air-conditioning, ceiling fans, and private bathrooms with hot water. There is a swimming pool on the property. Fabio Federico Favalli is the owner and managing director. The restaurant has eastern Jamaica's most authentic Italian cuisine, serving freshly prepared pizza and spaghetti, as well as fish, lobster, and meat dishes (US$10–30).

Fern Hill Club (tel. 876/993-7374 or 876/993-7375, fernhill@cwjamaica.com, www.fernhillclubhotel.com, US$95–182) began as a 31-unit timeshare complex. Owners Carol and Vincent Holgate have been consolidating the rooms over the past decade. There are a handful of villas separate from the main building--some one-bedroom, some two-bedroom--which are a good value, while not by any means state of the art. The property itself covers a hillside and has great views at every elevation level, especially from the open-air dining room and bar area.

Frenchman's Cove (tel. 876/993-7270, fax 876/993-7404, flawrence@cwjamaica.com, www.frenchmans-cove-resort.com, US$95–295, inclusive of tax and continental breakfast) remains one of Jamaica's prime properties, considered by some to have the best beach on the island. The cove itself is small with a short, wide beach and fine white sand. Fifteen villas are scattered about a large property. The three villas in use and the 12 rooms in the main house are not sparkling by any means and could certainly use more attention than they get, but for its proximity to an excellent beach, Frenchman's is still a good accommodation option, especially for a family that is more interested in affordability and convenience than shiny shower rods.

Jerk lunch is cooked every afternoon on the beach, which is open to nonguests as well (9 a.m.–5 p.m. daily, admission US$5). Manager Frank Lawrence has worked on the property since 1959, when he started on the construction work and then worked as a waiter during the height of Port Antonio's glamorous tourism boom. After its opening in 1961, Frenchman's Cove quickly became one of the most exclusive resorts around. Formerly a part of Cold Harbour Estate--which encompassed all of San San, Frenchman's, and Drapers Harbour--Frenchman's Cove is today owned by the Weston family, which runs several international business ventures. Frenchman's Cove Villas have suffered repeated hurricane damage, especially during Gilbert in 1988, but according to Mr. Lawrence, the main house has remained in operation since opening.

Moon San Villa (tel. 876/993-7777, Sansan1999@hotmail.com, www.moonsanvilla.com) is run as a bed-and-breakfast and is the most affordable way to stay next to the Blue Lagoon. The villa has four double-occupancy rooms (US$125–165 low season, US$135–175 high season) that rent individually. While not directly on the water, Moon San overlooks the Blue Lagoon strip of villas that are among the most luxurious in Jamaica. Guests have easy water access, as well as access to the beach at Frenchman's Cove. Breakfasts are communal, with a view out to sea. It's not a place for exclusive privacy, but Moon San makes a good base for excursions and frequent dips in Blue Hole. Owner Greg Naldrett also operates Blue Mountain Bicycle Tours. Complimentary use of the African Star water taxi is included to deliver guests to San San Beach, Blue Hole, and Frenchman's Cove.

Goblin Hill (tel. 876/993-7537, reservations office tel. 876/925-8108, reservations@goblinhill.com, www.goblinhillvillas.com), farther up the hill in the San San district, is an excellent option for families or couples. The spacious rooms and self-contained duplex suites (US$115–195 low season to US$125–265 high) are a great value, especially for a family. The two-bedroom duplex suites have large master rooms with a second bedroom on the opposite end upstairs, and a living area and kitchen downstairs. The living rooms have sliding doors that open onto a beautiful lawn rolling down and exposing a view of San San Bay, also visible from the master bedroom. Goblin Hill is well situated for all the best attractions on one of Port Antonio's grandest hillsides. While its interiors may be less extravagant than at some of its neighboring villa properties, Port Antonio is much more than art on the walls, and Goblin Hill boasts a large swimming pool, tennis courts, and comfortable digs within easy walking distance of San San Beach and the Blue Lagoon. Guests get complimentary use of the beach at Frenchman's Cove.

Jamaica Palace Hotel (tel. 876/993-7720, pal.hotel@cwjamaica.com, www.jamaicapalace.com, US$170–190), just across Turtle Crawle Bay from Trident, is an enormous concrete compound with giant checkerboard-tiled courtyards, a gallery that defines kitsch in the lobby, a swimming pool in the shape of Jamaica surrounded by hot black surface, and stale bedrooms that are shocking for their total lack of regard for the verdant surroundings outside.

Jamaica Palace was built by the late Sigi Fahmi, a baroness who began building Trident Castle before running out of funds and selling it to the architect Earl Levy. Now run by Sigi's husband Nazar Fahmi, Jamaica Palace was obviously constructed in an attempt to one-up Trident with enormous columns out front that boast of excess. Clearly Fahmi was a dear customer of Carib Cement, as the hotel's construction gave the company plenty of business. Definitely not an ecotourism lodge, rooms at the Palace are cavernous with old air-conditioning units, private baths with hot water, and TV. It's the only place in Jamaica that offers a room with a round bed in the middle. The ceilings are very high; the walls are whitewashed concrete and covered in art. Several large caged birds are on the property, and it's a great place to get a Ken Spencer painting and catch a glimpse of the bold creations of the Baroness herself.

Over US$250

Trident Castle (www.tridentcastle.com) next door to Jamaica Palace, built by Earl Levy, is also available for rent (US$5,500 nightly low season, US$7,500 high season) and sleeps 16–18 people. The castle has a full-time staff of three housekeepers, three waiters, one bartender, one chef, and three gardeners. Many celebrities and nobility have found Trident Castle adequately grandiose for their time in Jamaica.

Hotel Mocking Bird Hill (Drapers, tel. 876/993-7134, 876/993-7267, 876/619-1215, or 876/619-1216, info@hotelmockingbirdhill.com, www.hotelmockingbirdhill.com) has pleasantly decorated garden view (US$195/255 low/high season) and sea view (US$235/295 low/high season) rooms with ceiling fans and mosquito nets. Wireless Internet is available in the lounge, where a computer is set up for guest use. Solar hot-water systems, locally minded purchasing practices, and minimal-waste policies have earned Mocking Bird Hill an ecofriendly reputation. With stunning views of both the Blue Mountains and Portland's coast, it's hard not to love the place. The owners, Barbara Walker and Shireen Aga, keep several large dogs that can often be seen tagging along behind the innkeepers. The hotel is closed every year in September for maintenance. To get to the hotel, take a right immediately after Jamaica Palace and climb for about 200 meters. The entrance will be on your left.

Geejam (San San, tel. 876/993-7000, 876/618-8000, or 876/383-7921, reservations@geejam.com, www.geejam.com, US$595–705 low season, US$2,035–2,125 high season) is a recording artists' paradise where the likes of Les Nubians, No Doubt, India Arie, Amy Winehouse, and Tom Cruise have chosen to take their working vacations. Sitting on a low hill overlooking San San Bay, the property consists of the main house with three bedrooms, three cabins dispersed across the property, and a one-bedroom suite below the recording studio. Inside the huts, more than the basic amenities are covered: TV, Apple home theater systems with DVD, iPod docks, and minibar are included. Wi-Fi covers the entire property. More importantly, the mattresses are comfortable, linens soft and clean, and there's hot water in the showers. Two cabins and the suite have steam rooms as well. The main house, more of a bona-fide villa, is decorated with contemporary Jamaican art and has a stylish pool out front. The recording studio is located at the lower reaches of the property, a deck with whirlpool tub crowning its roof. The studio has all the latest gear and oversized windows overlooking the water. While the property is specifically designed as the ideal recording retreat for a band-sized group locking down the entire property (US$5,795/6,500 daily low/high season), it is also ideal for couples or other kinds of retreats. The property is located a 10-minute walk from San San Beach, with the Blue Lagoon also a stone's throw away. Rates include a full staff.

Kanopi House (contact Michael Fox, tel. 876/993-8509, cell tel. 876/351-5083, info@kanopihouse.com, www.kanopihouse.com, US$600–1000 all-inclusive) is the latest addition to Port Antonio's high-end market. Four self-contained wooden cottages stand on stilts along the jungle-covered slope rising from the eastern bank of the Blue Lagoon. For a Medicine Man rush or even a spoiled-Tarzan kind of feel, there's no place like Kanopi, and it's the only accommodation option that actually sits on the lagoon. The most tasteful and simple decor adorns the cottages' exposed wood interiors. The cottages are naturally cool in the shade of the forest, with ceiling fans rather than air-conditioning, and do not have TV. The bathrooms are well laid out, and each cottage has a wide veranda with an outdoor grill. Elaine Williams Galimore is the friendly housekeeper and cook. Kanopi's entrance branches off the driveway to Dragon Bay. When the project is complete, Kanopi is slated to have 14 one- and two-bedroom cottages with king-size beds.

Villas

Port Antonio's villas are definitely some of the nicest in Jamaica, and far less pricey than those in Ocho Rios and Montego Bay. Typically these villas either have breathtaking hilltop views over mountains and out to sea, or are directly on the water, like the famous Blue Lagoon Villas--the most coveted real estate in Jamaica, perfectly placed between San San Bay and the Blue Lagoon. Blue Marlin, Nautilus, San Bar, San Cove, and Bonne Amie are among the crème de la crème. A full staff and all the amenities of home come standard in all these villas; the main difference in prices reflect principally the level of opulence you should expect.

Many of the area's villas book through Villa Vacation (2 West St., tel. 876/993-2668, cell tel. 876/778-3241 or 876/420-9376, yvonne.blakey@cwjamaica.com, www.villavacation.net), run by Yvonne Blakey. Yvonne lives in Port Antonio, represents many of the area owners, and can perfectly tailor your interests with a villa to put you in paradise. Most of the villas are also members of the Jamaica Association of Villas and Apartments (JAVA).

Wilk's Bay (contact owners Jim & Mary Lowe, tel. 876/993-7400, cell tel. 876/471-9622, reservations@wilksbay.com, www.wilksbay.com, US$225–450 low season, US$275–600 high season) has one-, two- and three-bedroom villas, each staffed with its own cook/housekeeper. The recently refurbished property, situated on Wilk's Bay between Frenchman's Cove and Alligator Head, is ideal for couples, small groups, or families. Wilk's boasts a white-sand private beach, a dock, and a swimming pool. Bedrooms have air-conditioning, high ceilings, mahogany woodwork, and louvered windows. Last minute bookings can stay on a B&B plan with no minimum time, based on availability. Plans are afoot to add six stand-alone units and a reception area.

Lolivya (tel. 876/993-7400, cell tel. 876/471-9622, reservations@wilksbay.com, US$500–750) is a beautiful four-bedroom villa overlooking Pelew Island, Alligator Head, and San San's most prized stretch of oceanfront. The villa is owned by Jim and Mary Lowe, thus the name Lo-liv-ya.

Ocean Shell (contact Desmond Gouldbourne, tel. 876/993-2144, cell tel. 876/878-4816, desmondgouldbourne@yahoo.com, US$500/550 low/high season) shares a corner of Wilk's Bay with the Lowes' property. The four-bedroom villa has king-size beds in three rooms and two twins in the fourth. There's a private swimming pool, all rooms have air-conditioning, and there's cable TV in all four bedrooms and the living room. The villa is staffed with a cook, housekeeper, butler, and gardener.

Nautilus (contact owner Xavier Chin, cell tel. 876/383-2446, reservations@nautilusvillas.com, xavierchin@hotmail.com, www.nautilusvilla.com, US$800/night, or US$5,000 weekly) is a beautiful three-bedroom villa with a large deck extending over the water between Pellew Island and Blue Hole. Perfect for small families or a group of three couples, the villa boasts a modern gas grill, a three-person staff, kayaks, and a comfortable living room upstairs with broadband Internet access, a stereo system with speakers inside and out, and cable TV.

San Bar (tel. 876/929-2378 or 876/926-0931, dianas@cwjamaica.com or bookings@windjammerjamaica.com, www.sanbarjamaica.com, US$10,500/12,000 weekly low/high season) is a six-bedroom villa sleeping a maximum of eight adults and six children, ideally situated among the Blue Lagoon Villas with a clear view of Pellew Island and Alligator Head. Easily one of the best villas around, San Bar boasts an oversized hot tub on the deck, impeccable furnishings, and more balconies than you'll want to count. Cable TV, broadband Internet, iPod docks and a stereo keep guests well plugged in.

San Cove (www.sancovejamaica.com, US$7,000/8,000 weekly low/high season) is a sister property to San Bar that also books directly through the Stewart family, which owns the properties. San Cove can be annexed with San Bar to expand the accommodation capacity for larger groups who want to remain close. The highlight of this four-bedroom, three-story luxury villa is its exceptionally large deck with grill and picturesque gazebo, fit for relaxing in the shade or enjoying a fine meal at the water's edge. Amenities are the same as at San Bar.

Gremlin Hill (contact owner Gaia Budhai, tel. 305/534-9807, gaiamylove@yahoo.com, www.gremlinhill.com, US$2,500/3,400 weekly low/high season, two-night minimum stay) has a great vantage point over Pellew Island. The artfully decorated villa has accommodations for eight. Master Chef Linette Bernard's reputation precedes her. The villa is a popular venue for intimate yoga and other retreats. Bookings can be made either through the owner or locally through Yvonne Blakey's Villa Vacation.

Norse Hill (www.norsevillas.com, US$3,500/$4,000 weekly low/high season) was built by Iris and Reidar Johanssen as their winter home. The Johanssens lived amazing lives, jumping across the globe before their time in Hong Kong during the 1930s. The Norwegian-style chalet is accordingly grand and filled with art and antiques from China. Norse Hill is a steadfast, gorgeous, stately structure, with an industrial-size kitchen, three bedrooms, and a loving and dedicated staff. The master bedroom and the slightly less opulent room on the other end of the chateau both have large tiled bathrooms and oversized mirrors. Verandas look out over the pool and gardens and, beyond that, the wide-open sea. All the amenities are there, including DSL. The property itself is arguably the best endowed in Port Antonio. Hectares of botanical gardens sit on top of a hill looking over San San Bay. An enormous ficus tree shades the best seat in town, a real contender against Henry Morgan's Lookout, which later became Noel Coward's Firefly. The gardens have extensive pathways through lush flowerbeds.

Norse Point (US$1,400/1,750 low/high season weekly) is the only one-bedroom villa in Port Antonio. The little-sister property to Norse Hill, this quaint cottage lies directly across a short stretch of water from Pellew Island, between San San Beach and Blue Hole.

Alligator Head (contact manager, David Lee, tel. 876/993-7453, or cell tel. 876/298-5675, david@alligatorhead.net, www.alligatorhead.net, US$2,500 daily for up to eight) rents two villas, one three-bedroom and one four-bedroom, sleeping six and eight respectively, with some 17 staff attending to the peninsular estate, two beaches, several pools, two jet skis, and Wi-Fi across the property included.

Villas with Class (info@villaswithclass.com, www.villaswithclass.com), run by Nino Sciuto, offers booking services for many of the area's villas and runs a community-oriented site featuring the attractions and services.

Chateau En Exotica (contact Henri and Joyce Verne, tel. 561/793-7257 or 561-793-7257, exotica@webtv.net, www.jamaicadreamvillas.com, US$645/745 low/high nightly for up to six) is a spectacular four-bedroom villa perched atop a hill in the San San district. Amenities include a Jacuzzi, pool, and stunning views.

FOOD
Continental and Jamaican

First and Last Bar & Restaurant serves up authentic Jamaican dishes including curry goat, oxtail, brown stew fish, chicken, pork, tripe and bean, ackee and saltfish, mackerel, rundown, and callaloo. Howard "Howie" Cover (cell tel. 876/367-7700) owns the bar, and Clement Chambers (cell tel. 876/450-5143) runs the restaurant, with his wife Anna doing the cooking.

Green Palm Restaurant & Bar (19<@fract>1/2 West Palm Ave., tel. 876/715-4482, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) serves Jamaican staples during the week and seafood dishes like fish, conch, and lobster (US$10–20) for Seafood Fridays (4 p.m.–midnight).

Chenel's Pizza (28-A West St., tel. 876/440-0968, 9 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon.–Sat., US$2–30) is run by Michael "Mikey" Badarie (cell tel. 876/364-5833), who serves fresh natural juices, hot dogs, burgers, sandwiches, and of course pizza--by the slice or whole 10" and 16" pies with 15 different toppings available.

Yellow Canary (1 Harbour St., contact Crissie, cell tel. 876/404-8161, 8 a.m.–5 p.m.daily, US$2–4.50), also known as Bramwell's Restaurant, serves typical Jamaican fare for breakfast and lunch: ackee and saltfish, liver, corned beef, stew peas, cow foot, curry goat, stewed pork, brown stew fish, and fried chicken.

Nix Nax Centre (16 Harbour St., across from Texaco, tel. 876/993-2081 or cell tel. 876/329-4414, 8 a.m.– 7 p.m. Mon.–Thurs., 8 a.m.–8 p.m. Fri.–Sat., 2–8 p.m. Sun., US$3–5) serves Jamaican favorites like fried chicken, curry goat, and stewed pork. Ackee with saltfish and stewed chicken are served for breakfast daily.

Wonderful Palace Fast Food (9 Harbour St., tel. 876/993-2169, 9 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 3–9 p.m. Sun., US$3–8) has decent Chinese and Jamaican staples.

Dixon's Corner Store (12 Bridge St., tel. 876/993-3840, 8:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m. Mon.–Fri.) is an Ital restaurant serving excellent vegetarian dishes (US$3) like veggie chunks, veggie steak, fried whole-wheat dumplings, steamed cabbage, and saltfish. Delicious fresh juices (US$1) like sorrel and ginger are also served. Mr. and Mrs. Dixon run the place.

Anna Banana Restaurant (7 Folly Rd., tel. 876/715-6533 or contact manager Daniela Trowers, cell tel. 876/483-3672, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. daily) serves seafood and meat items. Fish costs about US$12/pound, with the pepper shrimp (highly recommended) at US$16/pound. There's a happy hour 6–7 p.m. on Fridays, offering a 25 percent discount on all drinks and a selector playing music to keep patrons entertained till closing.

Survival Beach Restaurant (Allan Ave., Oliver Weir cell tel. 876/384-4730, son Everton cell tel. 876/442-5181) is an Ital shack on the beachfront marked by a yellow picket fence on East Harbour. Vegetarian food, jelly coconut, and Ital juices are served at reasonable prices (US$5–10).

Golden Happiness (2 West, tel. 876/993-2329, 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 2–9 p.m. Sun.) is the best Chinese food in town, but the place lacks ambience and is best for takeout. The food is good value (US$4–7).

Cynthia's (Winnifred Beach, tel. 876/347-7085 or 876/562-4860, 9 a.m.–6 p.m. daily), run by Cynthia Miller, serves the best fish, lobster, and chicken accompanied by vegetables, rice and peas, roast breadfruit, and festival at the best value (US$7–15). Painter, Cynthia's business partner and chef, can be found out back in the kitchen.

Woody's Low Bridge Place (Drapers, tel. 876/993-7888, 10 a.m.–10 p.m. daily), run by Charles "Woody" Cousins and his charismatic wife Cherry, is definitively the coolest snack bar and restaurant in Port Antonio; it serves what is quite possibly the best burger (US$2.50) in Jamaica. Woody's Low Bridge Place opened in 1986 but Woody has been in the tourism business since 1963.

Sir P's Cook Shop (cell tel. 876/787-5514) serves up local dishes like jerk chicken, roast fish and bammy, conch, and natural juices. Peanut porridge and pastries are served in the morning.

Soldier's Camp (83 Red Hassell Rd., tel. 876/715-2083 or cell tel. 876/351-4821, 6 p.m.–you say when), better known as Soldji's, draws a healthy cross-section of locals on Wednesday and especially Friday nights for deliciously seasoned janga, or crayfish, as well as jerk chicken, pork, and curry goat. Special order can be arranged on any other night. The bar is open daily 10 a.m.–9 p.m. Everold "Soldji" Daley, a former soldier with the U.S. Army, opened the joint in 2003 after returning to Jamaica in 1998 from the United States.

Devon House I Scream (Errol Flynn Marina, tel. 876/993-3825) serves the best ice cream for kilometers around, but avoid the tubs that have thawed and refrozen.

Caribbean Fusion and International

Dickie's Banana (Bryan's Bay, about 1.5 km west of town center, cell tel. 876/809-6276, reservations required, hours based on demand, US$25 per person) is also known as "Best Kept Secret" since it was the winner of the Jamaica Observer's Best Kept Secret award in 2002. It has wonderful food at a great value and even better service. Five courses are served up based on Dickie's creative culinary magic, with no ordering necessary. Just let him know if there's something you'd prefer or something you don't eat and he'll take care of the rest. For the main course there's a choice of fish, chicken, goat, lobster, or vegetarian. Dickie Alvin Butler is assisted by his wife Marjorie Edwards (cell tel. 876/869-4391) and their son Dennis (cell tel. 876/809-6276).

Rusalka Restaurant & Bar (upstairs at the Errol Flynn Marina, cell tel. 876/715-5756 or 876/298-8773, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. daily) specializes in Central Asian and Russian cuisine; the menu changes every few weeks but the most popular dishes are served consistently. Appetizers include grilled feta cheese and beetroot salad served with warm crostinis (US$5), rice pilaf with chicken and raisins (US$15), stroganoff served with olive oil mash and buttered vegetables (US$15), and pelmeni, pork and beef minced and wrapped in dough and served in a clear chicken broth accompanied by olive bread, sour cream and salad, or mayonnaise and grated cheese (US$20). Rusalka also serves veggie dishes like seasonal vegetable stir-fry (US$10). Jamaican classics on offer include steamed yellow snapper in a butter sauce served with parsley white rice (US$15–25), chicken curry served with seasonal steamed mixed vegetables, rice and peas (US$9.50), and jerk chicken supreme (US$11). Live entertainment on Fridays and Saturdays features local groups from Portland and musicians from Kingston and Montego Bay.

Norma's at the Marina (tel. 876/993-9510, www.normasatthemarina.com, 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Tues.–Sun., US$10–27) is the latest of Norma Shirley's reputable establishments. This is Port Antonio's only bona fide high-end restaurant, serving dishes like lamb, steak, lobster, pork chops, shrimp, chicken, and pan-seared fish. The food at Norma's is dependably good, smoked marlin being the famous specialty appetizer.

Mille Fleurs (at Hotel Mockingbird Hill, tel. 876/993-7134, 876/993-7267, 876/619-1215, or 876/619-1216, entrées run US$25–40 ) is open daily for breakfast (8–10:30 a.m.), lunch (noon–2:30 p.m.), and dinner (7–9:30 p.m.). Mille Fleur changes its menu on a daily basis, serving creative dishes that emphasize the use of local, fresh ingredients, like jerk meat with papaya salsa or a pimento-roasted steak with rum-honey glaze served alongside grilled banana or pineapple. Reservations strongly recommended. Local jack fruit is also infused into salads and pesto dishes served with cassava flour pasta. One of the best restaurants around, Mille Fleurs features creative dishes fusing elements of Asian, European, and Jamaican cuisine.

Groceries

Chucky's Wholesale (21-A West St., tel. 876/715-4769, 7:30 a.m.–8 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) has groceries.

Ramtulla's Supercenter (Folly Rd., tel. 876/715-5132) is the most modern supermarket in Port Antonio, with the largest selection of groceries.

For groceries, you can also head to Kamlyn's Supermarket and Cambio (19 Harbour St., tel. 876/993-2140; 12 West St., tel. 876/993-4292; cambio 8:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Thurs., 8:30 a.m.–6 p.m. Fri., 8:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Sat., closed Sun.; supermarket 8:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Mon.–Thurs., 8:30 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Fri., 8:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Sat.).

Kamal's (12 West St., tel. 876/993-4292, 8:30 a.m.–8 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Sun.) is a grocery and cambio owned by Mr. Sinclair, who also owns Kamlyn's.

CC Bakery is at 1 West Palm Avenue (tel. 876/993-2528).

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

Portland Parish Library (1 Fort George St., tel. 876/993-2793) offers free Internet access on a set of computers in the junior library and at the computer lab in the adult section.

Don J's Computer Centre (Shop #10, Royal Mall, tel. 876/715-5559, 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) has Internet access (US$1/hr). Faxing and VoIP calling services are also offered.

Banks, Laundry, and Shipping

Scotiabank is located at 3 Harbour Street (tel. 876/993-2523).

Firstcaribbean has a branch on Harbour Street (tel. 876/993-2708).

Ever-Brite Cleaners and Laundromat (17 West Palm, tel. 876/993-4071, 9 a.m.–8 p.m. daily.) can take care of your dirty clothes for US$5 per load.

For shipping services, DHL operates through local agent Port Antonio Company (City Centre Plaza, tel. 876/993-9401 or 876/993-3617, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat.).

Police and Medical Emergencies

Port Antonio Police is located at 10 Harbor Street (tel. 876/993-2546), whereas San San Police is at the base of San San Hill (tel. 876/993-7315).

Police advice in Port Antonio includes all the typical warnings: Don't sleep with the door wide open, watch your belongings on the beach, don't use drugs in public, and be wary of thieving prostitutes. Petty theft incidents are reported regularly, but on the whole Port Antonio is relatively crime-free compared to other areas of the island. Constable Brown and Superintendent Bowen are in charge at the Port Antonio constabulary.

Port Antonio Hospital (Naylor's Hill, tel. 876/993-2426) is run by doctors Terry Hall and Jeremy Knight, who have a very good reputation.

Eric Hudecek at Modern Dentistry (9 West Harbour St., tel. 876/715-5896, cell tel. 876/860-3860 or 876/371-2068, info@modern-dentistry.de) is a highly regarded dentist with a smart, well-equipped office overlooking Navy Island. He is sought out by patients from across Jamaica and abroad.

Dr. Lynvale Bloomfield (32 Harbour St., tel. 876/993-2338) has a private practice in town and also owns City Plaza Pharmacy (City Center Plaza, Harbour St., tel. 876/993-2620).

GETTING THERE

Port Antonio is served by route taxis from Buff Bay (US$1.50) from the west and Boston (US$1.50) and Morant Bay (US$4.50) from the east. Minibuses leave twice daily for these areas from Market Square. Taxis gather in Market Square and in front of the Texaco station on Harbour Street. Most guesthouses and hotels arrange transportation from Kingston or Montego Bay airports, Kingston being the closer international airport at about 2.5 hours away.

Driving from Kingston, the shortest route (B1) passes over Hardwar Gap in the Blue Mountains before descending to the coast in Buff Bay. From Buff Bay, head east along the coast until you reach Port Antonio. The road over Hardwar Gap is regularly blocked by landslides and is at times impassible for years on end. This route takes about two hours.

The alternate route from Kingston (A3) passes over Stony Hill and then through Castleton, St. Mary, and Junction before hitting the coast around Annotto Bay. When the road through the Blue Mountains is blocked, this is the quickest route between Kingston and Port Antonio, taking about 2.5 hours.

A third route (A4), every bit as scenic, follows the coast east of Kingston along the southern flanks of the Blue Mountains through Morant Bay, turning west at Hector's River. This route takes 2–3 hours on decent roads.

The Ken Jones Aerodrome, 10 minutes west of Port Antonio, receives flights from Kingston, Oracabessa, Montego Bay, and Negril with charter operators International Airlink (tel. 876/940-6660, res@intlairlink.com, www.intlairlink.com) and Jamaica Air Shuttle.

GETTING AROUND

The town of Port Antonio is compact enough to get around comfortably on foot. For any of the attractions east, west, and south of town, however, it is necessary to jump in a route taxi or hire a private charter. If you're feeling energetic, traveling along the coast between town and Winnifred Beach or even Boston by bicycle is very feasible. Route taxis congregate by the Texaco station on Harbour Street for points east, and in Market Square for points west and south. It's easy to flag down route taxis along the main road. Expect to pay around US$1.50 for a ride a few kilometers down the coast as far as Boston.

Richard Dixon (cell tel. 876/312-4743) is a dependable taxi man for charters, as are Indian (cell tel. 876/866-6920); William Reid, a.k.a. Busout (cell tel. 876/849-0867); and Aldwyne (cell tel. 876/358-8086).

Fisher Tours (cell tel. 876/852-0177) can give you a lift around for reasonable rates. Driver Andre Thomson will take you from Kingston airport to Port Antonio for US$120, or on excursions to places like Reach Falls from Port Antonio for US$20/person. Andre's van has a capacity of eight.

Eastern Rent-A-Car (16 West St., manager Kevin Sudeall tel. 876/993-4364 or cell tel. 876/850-2449, eastcar@cwjamaica.com, www.lugan.com/east.html) has a Toyota Yaris (US$85/day) or Corolla (US$75), Honda Accord (US$120), Toyota RAV4 (US$120), and Mitsubishi Gallant (US$120), Lancer (US$90), or Space Wagon (US$120). Longer-term rentals will be discounted.

UPPER RIO GRANDE VALLEY

Nestled between the Blue Mountains and the John Crow Mountains are the culturally rich communities of the Upper Rio Grande Valley. These include the farming communities of Millbank and Bowden Pen and the Maroon community of Moore Town. Trails, including Cunha Cunha Pass, lead into the lush rain forest of the park and provide an opportunity to see the endangered Giant Swallowtail, the largest butterfly in the Western Hemisphere. The best way to get to know this area is by contacting the Maroon Council to learn from the people who have staked out this land as their own for centuries.

Rio Grande Rafting (tel. 876/993-5778, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. daily, US$72/raft) is a much-touted attraction controlled by the Tourism Product Development Corporation, operating along the banks of the wide and gentle Rio Grande River. Eighty-three raft captains compete fiercely for clients, who enjoy the sedate relaxation of a 2.5-hour ride down the river on long bamboo rafts. To reach the start of the ride, take Breastworks Road from Port Antonio, keep right on Wayne Road in Breastworks past Fellowship, and keep right following the signs to Berridale. The raft ride ends in St. Margaret's Bay by the mouth of the river at Rafter's Rest. Transporation is not included in the cost of rafting. For Moore Town, take a left over the bridge at Fellowship Crossing.

MOORE TOWN

The stronghold of Jamaica's Windward Maroons, led by Colonel Wallace Sterling since 1995, Moore Town is a quiet community located along the banks of the Rio Grande, about an hour's drive south of Port Antonio. Prior to the election of Colonel Sterling, the Moore Town Maroons were led by Colonel C. L. G. Harris (from 1964), and before him, it was Colonel Ernest Downer (from 1952).

Colonel Wallace Sterling can organize B&B-style homestays (cell tel. 876/898-5714, US$30/person) in the community, as well as hikes to Nanny Town farther up into the mountains. It's a two- to three-day hike round-trip that will cost US$100 per person for guides, food, and shelter. If you don't bring your own tent, guides will use materials from the bush to make shelter at night. Along the way you're likely to pick up a few basic Maroon words like medysie (thank you). If you are unable to reach Colonel Sterling, Moore Town Maroon Council Secretary Charmaine Shackleford (cell tel. 876/867-6939) can also help arrange homestay visits and guides.

The Maroons have maintained their customs throughout the years, as well as their language, a mix of West African tongues brought by captured slaves who belonged to the Ahanti, Fanti, Akan, Ibo, Yoruba, and Congo peoples, among others.

Sights

Bump Grave (admission by donation) is the final resting place of Nanny, the legendary Maroon leader and Jamaica's first national heroine. It's the principal attraction in Moore Town; a plaque and monument recall her glorious leadership and victory over British forces that tried unsuccessfully to conquer the Maroons. Bump Grave is fenced off, but the gate can be opened by the caretaker of the school located across the road. Call to alert the Colonel (cell tel. 876/898-5714) or Maroon Council Secretary Charmaine Shackleford (cell tel. 876/867-6939) of your arrival to ensure someone is around to open the gate.

Nanny Falls is a small waterfall within an easy hour's walk from Moore Town. Ask any local to indicate where the trail starts, just above Nanny's grave. There is also an alternate, longer route, about three hours round-trip, if you're looking for more of a workout. The Colonel can help arrange a guide (US$10).

The Moore Town Maroon Cultural Center is at time of writing still in the conceptual stages, but there is adequate momentum from the Maroon Council and the Institute of Jamaica to guarantee that the project will develop over the coming years. The concept is to establish a museum and cultural center for the exhibition and preservation of Maroon heritage. Young people will be taught to make and play drums and the abeng, a traditional Maroon horn used to communicate over great distances. The abeng is said to have struck fear into the hearts of the British, who were never able to conquer the Maroons. Craft items, toys, and a whole range of items considered the basis of the Maroon culture are also to be produced, and the center will have an adjoining gift shop and restaurant to accommodate visitors. "We are looking at a living thing rather than strictly an exhibition of the past," Colonel Sterling said about the project. The Maroon Council is currently working with UNESCO and the IOJ in developing the plans and securing funding.

Accommodations

Ambassabeth Cabins (Bowden Pen, Lennette Wilks, cell tel. 876/395-5351 or 876/381-1528, US$50 per cabin, sleeps 2–4; US$25 for a tent that can sleep eight) is the most remote accommodation option in the Rio Grande Valley, located above Millbank at the uppermost reaches. The famous Cunha Cunha Pass Trail leaves from there, as does the White River Trail, leading to a series of cascades. There is an unmanned ranger station maintained by Ms. Wilks in Millbank, just over the border into St. Thomas two miles before reaching Bowden Pen. The Quack River and White River Falls are both nearby. Ms. Wilks can arrange trail guides and meals, as well as cultural entertainment. There are a total of eight cabins, which can house up to 20 people in all. Cabins have beds with sheets and blankets; towels and bug dope should be brought along. One cabin has a private bath with shower; the others share common facilities. There's also an indoor dining and recreation area. Cabins come with breakfast, rundung (a coconut sauce) with fish or vegetables.

Millbank is 17 miles up the river valley from Port Antonio; as an alternative to the route from the Rio Grande Valley, there is a well-established 5.5-mile trail from Hayfield, St. Thomas. Trained guides at Ambassabeth are knowledgeable in biodiversity and local cultural history. The Cunha Cunha Pass Trail connects Portland and St. Thomas over the Blue Mountains, where a lookout point at Cunha Cunha gives spectacular views.

Getting There and Around

Barrett Adventures (contact Carolyn Barrett, cell tel. 876/382-6384, info@barrettadventures.com, www.barrettadventures.com) offers transportation to and from the Blue and John Crow Mountains, as well as a hiking expedition from the Portland side or from Kingston.