St. Mary

Accommodations

St. Mary has in recent years gained the reputation of Jamaica’s best-kept secret, a place where hustlers are few and far between and the vast majority of people carry on with their lives oblivious to the tourism trade. The parish has a beautiful rocky coastline punctuated with beaches of all kinds, with forested hills dropping down rapidly to the sea in places like Oracabessa and the wilderness area between Robin’s Bay and Port Maria.

Boscobel, 15 minutes east of Ochi, has the small Ian Fleming International Airport thanks to music mogul and Island Outpost hotelier Chris Blackwell successfully lobbied for an upgrade to the old Boscobel Aerodrome. The airport caters to private jets. Boscobel itself is a bedroom community for many workers in Ochi and several destination resorts and villas line the coast between Ochi and Oracabessa. Oracabessa has become known as an artists’ community and produces some of Jamaica’s unique craft items you won’t find at the markets in Ocho Rios or Kingston.

Farther east past Galina Point is Port Maria, a sleepy fishing and market town whose days of glory are long gone. Nonetheless it’s worth a stop to stroll around a picturesque port town far removed from the country’s mainstay tourism economy. St. Mary lacks a tourism hub, which is perhaps central to its charm. Instead, its principal town of Port Maria caters to the parish’s predominantly rural populatio nwith a few banks and markets.

Still farther east is Robin’s Bay, an off-the-beaten track destination populated by fisherfolk and a strong Rastafarian community. The port town of Annotto Bay is quieter yet but still an active transportation hub. The St. Mary interior is some of the prettiest countryside in Jamaica, with areas like Islington covered in rolling hills with spectacular views of the coastline. West of Annotto Bay, the main road splits at a roundabout, continuing eastward toward Portland along the coast (A4) and heading south toward Kingston via Junction and Castleton (A3).

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Loveland Villa

A modest three-bedroom property, Loveland Villa (US$175 low season, US$200 high season) has a wide veranda for enjoying the panoramic view of the Oracabessa coast. The master suite has a king bed and private bath. Two other rooms each have two single beds that can be joined to make kings and share a bath. The kitchen is fully equipped, and the housekeeper comes daily to cook and tidy up. The villa holds six comfortably and up to eight (US$20 pp after 6 guests). Wi-Fi covers the house; a flat-screen TV in the living room has a DVD player.

In: Accommodations, Villas

Ocean Edge Villa

An eight-unit guesthouse overlooking the sea in Oracabessa, Ocean Edge Villa (US$65 d) has self-contained units with queen beds, private balconies facing the sea, and kitchenettes. Rooms are clean and a great value for the money.

In: Accommodations, Villas

Moxons Beach Club

Moxons Beach Club (US$85–225) is a boutique property perched atop the cliffs in Stewart Town, between Tower Isle and Boscobel about 12 kilometers east of Ocho Rios. The four-level property descends to a private beach. Rooms face the sea or a courtyard and have queen- or king-size beds and en suite bathrooms. Wi-Fi is complimentary. A restaurant serves a mix of Jamaican and international dishes (US$8–28). This is a smart, well managed hotel ideal for couples or families with mature children.

In: European Plan

Green Castle Estate House

A spectacular colonial era estate house with miles of trails to explore

In: Villas

River Lodge

River Lodge (US$60–80 per room, including breakfast) is located on the site of a refurbished 400-year-old Spanish fort owned by Brigitta Fuchslocher. Rooms inside the fort complement a pair of cottages. From River Lodge there are hectares and hectares of unspoiled wilderness reaching almost all the way along the coast to Port Maria, where waterfalls and black-sand beaches are best reached by boat with the local fishermen.

In: Guesthouse

Strawberry Fields Together

Strawberry Fields Together Beachfront Cottages and Adventure Tours (US$90–220) sits on a seven-hectare property with six cottages ranging in comfort level from rustic Hibiscus to seaside honeymoon lavishness in Moonlight Magic. Two small private beaches with fine white sand line idyllic crystalline coves protected by coral reefs. An outdoor dining area has a wood deck, bar, pizza oven, and jerk center for eating and entertainment under the heavens.

In: Accommodations, Tours

Tranquility Cove

Tranquility Cove (US$180–600) is located across the road from Harmony Hall in Tower Isle with 26 units containing one-, two-, and three-bedroom suites, inclusive of a housekeeper/cook. A clubhouse has an infinity pool out front overlooking the sea. There are laundry facilities on the property. Reggae Beach, the closest piece of fine sand, can be reached in about 15 minutes by foot. The stretch of coast this property is on is not suitable for swimming as it is lined with cliffs and the sea is rough.

In: Condos and Apartments

Moxons Beach Club

Moxons Beach Club (US$85–225) is a boutique property perched atop the cliffs in Stewart Town, between Tower Isle and Boscobel about 12 kilometers east of Ocho Rios. The four-level property descends to a private beach. Rooms face the sea or a courtyard and have queen- or king-size beds and en suite bathrooms. Wi-Fi is complimentary. A restaurant serves a mix of Jamaican and international dishes (US$8–28). This is a smart, well managed hotel ideal for couples or families with mature children.

In: Hotels, European Plan

Tamarind Great House

Tamarind Great House (US$105–138 d) on Crescent Estate was destroyed by fire in 1987, and then rebuilt and restored to a 10-bedroom colonial-style great house by English couple Gillian and Barry Chambers, who live on the property with their son Gary. Nine attractive rooms have fans and private baths with hot water. Some rooms have private balconies. The house was completely rebuilt on the foundation of the original, while furnishings and decor reflect the colonial period.

In: Guesthouse